Cluster 3 · #26Phase 2
Volume: HighDifficulty: Medium
Sensitive Skin Routine: What to Use and What to Avoid
Sensitive skin is less a fixed skin type than a state — usually the result of a compromised barrier that allows irritants, allergens, and environmental aggressors to penetrate too easily. The correct approach is barrier repair first, active treatment second. Persisting with a routine that is clearly aggravating the skin hoping it will 'adjust' is one of the most common mistakes in sensitive skin management.
Quick Answer
Sensitive skin responds best to a barrier-repair foundation before any active treatment: ceramides, centella asiatica, panthenol, and niacinamide 2–5% as the first active. Once the barrier is stable, bakuchiol and azelaic acid are the gentlest effective treatment options. Fragrance, high-percentage AHAs, and multiple new products introduced simultaneously are the most common triggers to avoid.
The Best Ingredients for Sensitive Skin
- Ceramides: Repair the barrier lipid deficiency underlying most reactivity. Zero irritation risk. The most direct intervention for structural sensitivity.
- Niacinamide 2–5%: Directly stimulates ceramide synthesis and reduces inflammatory response. Start at 2% if 5% causes redness initially.
- Hyaluronic acid: Hydrates with zero irritation risk of any kind. Use a single-molecular-weight formula if multi-weight products cause tingling.
- Centella asiatica (madecassoside, asiaticoside): Suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines directly. One of the most valuable botanicals for reactive skin.
- Panthenol (vitamin B5): Humectant and anti-inflammatory. Found naturally in skin — essentially zero sensitisation risk.
- Bakuchiol 0.5%: Anti-ageing results without retinoid irritation, photosensitivity or adjustment period. The first-choice anti-ageing step for sensitive skin.
- Azelaic acid 10%: Addresses redness, rosacea, and PIH. Usually well-tolerated after a brief adjustment period of mild initial tingling in the first two weeks.
What to Avoid on Sensitive Skin
- Fragrance (parfum): The most common sensitiser in skincare — both synthetic and 'natural' essential oils.
- AHAs above 5%: Use lactic acid at maximum 5%, once per week at most.
- Retinol above 0.025%: Only with the moisturiser sandwich method, once per week, after barrier is confirmed stable.
- Essential oils at meaningful concentrations: Lavender, citrus, tea tree and clove are among the most common sensitisers.
- L-ascorbic acid above 10%: Use stable vitamin C derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate) instead.
- Multiple new products simultaneously: One new product every two weeks maximum. Always patch test on the inner arm before applying to the face.
The Sensitive Skin Routine
AM
Fragrance-free cream cleanser → Centella or panthenol serum → Ceramide moisturiser → Mineral SPF 50 (zinc oxide)
PM
Gentle balm cleanser → Niacinamide 2–5% → Hyaluronic acid → Ceramide night cream → Squalane (optional final step)
Run this routine for 6–8 weeks. When consistently calm and comfortable, add bakuchiol as a first anti-ageing step. Then azelaic acid for pigmentation if needed. One active at a time, two weeks apart.