Eumelanin / Phaeomelanin / Pigment
The pigment produced by melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis that determines skin, hair and eye colour, and provides partial UV protection. Two main types: eumelanin (brown-black, dominant in darker skin tones, better UV protection) and phaeomelanin (red-yellow, dominant in fair skin, less UV protective). Melanin overproduction in specific areas causes hyperpigmentation — including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and solar lentigines (sunspots). Most brightening ingredients work by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis.
The melanin-pigmentation pathway: UV/inflammation stimulates keratinocytes → keratinocytes release paracrine signals (endothelin-1, SCF) → melanocytes activate tyrosinase → melanin synthesised → transferred to keratinocytes via melanosomes. Every step in this chain can be targeted by brightening actives.
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